Themes seem to emerge with each travel experience–sometimes intentionally, sometimes serendipitously. Our recent trip to Reykjavik developed a literary theme, unexpectedly. Our original plan had been a one-day stop in the capital and then a few days in the north and then a day or two back in Reykjavik before returning to the US. Plans change, and we stayed in Reykjavik for the full week, our daughter and son-in-law joining with us for adventures new to them and to us. As we usually do, we stayed at Center Hotels Plaza, overlooking the square fitted out for ice skating.
A new exhibit of the vast manuscript collection has opened on the campus of the University, not far from the National Museum. Icelandic manuscripts contain the history of the Norse settling of the island, its laws, its stories and histories, its conversion from a Thor-oriented pagan culture to a Christian-based culture (a rare blood-less conversion). Most Icelanders can trace their family histories back to the sagas of the founding families.
The exhibit itself is a remarkable display of 900-year old manuscripts arranged around four themes: Creation–both the pre-Christian and Christian versions; domestic life; travel stories (the Icelanders were great travelers); and laws–how society should be organized. The visit has inspired me to revisit my saga (in translation) collection, which I’ll start on as soon as I’ve finished reading the books we collected during our stay.
As we were wandering the streets of the old town, we happened upon this bookshop, which we had cause to revisit several times. Our daughter and son-in-law had visited the original Old Bookstore at the original location in Flateyri. The Reykjavik location had opened recently and is laid out in a compact engaging floor plan. Entering the shop from the corner you come upon a display of fountain pens and stationery supplies and accessories. We recognized several company names, Galen Leather in particular, from our participation in fountain pen shows along the eastern US.
Go up a few steps from the entryway and you’re among tables and shelves of books, with English language translations of Icelandic writers given ample space. Although we’ve read most of the translated mystery/crime/thriller novels, the bookseller was able to direct us to a debut writer, Karin Juliusdottir (Dead Sweet) and the most recent novel in English by Eva Bjorg Aegisdottir (Home Before Dark). We’re very impressed with the breadth and depth of knowledge the booksellers shared with us about the books they carry and pen & ink supplies they offer. The Old Bookstore is an affirmation and celebration of an independent family-owned business.
Eva Bjorg has a series of novels–Forbidden Iceland–that are set in the small town of Akranes on the tip of a peninsula across Hvalfjord (Whale Fjord) from Reykjavik. Our daughter drove us out to the town so I could have a concrete image of the place to support the sense of place that Eva Bjork builds in that series. We chased the sun to Akranes, and after scrambling through the industrial harbor and stopping at the lighthouse parking lot, we had a lovely hot chocolate treat at Frysti Husid.
In addition to discovering the Old Bookstore and its treasures, we visited Penninn/Eymundsson, the bookstore chain that would put you in mind of Barnes & Noble. P/E has a vast array of books, magazines, gifts and souvenirs, and a coffee shop. It’s always pleasant to visit one of the several locations in Reykjavik or in Akureyri. With another dive into English translations of Icelandic writers, I found a recent translation of an Arnaldur Indridasson novel, A Quiet Mother. The novel revolves around an unreported crime 50 years ago with its terrible ramifications in contemporary Reykjavik. All of the novels I’ve read by Arnaldur evoke a troubled past informing a troubled present, a parochial, provincial past Reykjavik with a cosmopolitan building-mad present Reykjavik.
This recent trip wasn’t just about finding books, but as we packed our bags for the trip home, we noticed we had acquired quite a few.
Booked for Travel 