In Niccolo Rising by Dorothy Dunnett, protagonist apprentice Claes (Niccolo-to-be) creates chaos by inadvertently causing a massive cannon to tumble into the canal, creating an international incident. He is brought before Anselm Adornes to explain himself. Dunnett’s novels couple her fictitious creations with historical figures and events. In reality, Anselm Adornes was a leading figure in the life of late 15th century Bruges, a major trading center for textiles and banking in particular. Seventeen generations later, visitors can still visit Anselm’s estate which is still in family hands.
Bruges has many astounding places to see and art to explore, but an oft-overlooked site is Adornes Domain. It is a gem tucked away among residential streets, about a 30-minute stroll from the train station or about a 15-minute walk from the more popular visitor sites.
The almshouses have been converted into a series of connecting rooms that illustrate the history of the family, the textile trade that made the city’s fortunes, as well as Anselm’s key roles in diplomacy and charitable works. Among his many accomplishments, Anselm resolved a trade dispute over wool between Scotland and Bruges. Following a lengthy diplomatic and trade junket to Jerusalem, Anselm constructed a compact replica of Jerusalem’s Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which anchors the Domain property.
The chapel, where Mass is still celebrated on Saturday mornings, houses several remarkable features, including an upper chapel, carved altarpiece representing the Crucifixion, a smaller chapel and a crypt, all replicating the worship spaces that inspired Anselm.
Entrance to the chapel is opposite the reception area, where the receptionist expressed surprise that we were at Adornes Domain: granted it was a Monday, and it was mid-March. I told her about having recently re-read Niccolo Rising, and she perked right up, as though we had this deep shared experience.
Behind the reception area is the Scottish Lounge, which hosts an “honesty bar” for beverages and biscuits, and overstuffed leather sofas suggesting a British men’s club. A cup of Scottish Breakfast Tea and a Walker’s shortbread were the perfect pick-me-up. The museum shop acknowledges the deep historical connection between the Adornes and Scotland, with a variety of Scottish goods as well as collections about the family in Bruges. There were copies of several of Dunnett’s novels set in 15th century Bruges. Which had brought me to Adornes Domain in the first place.
Some sites that might be of interest
About Dorothy Dunnett and the Niccolo series:
The Books
About Adornes Domain:
https://www.adornes.org/en-home
About visiting Bruge:
Booked for Travel 